Tag Archive : 3d

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How to paint realistic skin tones in watercolour

Hi it’s Anna Mason, and in this watercolour
tip video I wanted so show you how I achieved the lifelike texture to this realistic hand
holding a brush. I usually paint botanical or wildlife subjects
but my painting technique can work equally well when painting people – especially when
painting in lots of detail like with this hand. As usual I worked from a photograph
so I could see all the detail and have the lighting totally fixed. I created a pencil outline of the hand including the major wrinkles and fingernails. The first stage of the painting was to build up the tonal range within the hand. I started with a super pale wash which was a match to the lightest highlights within the skin – using
my brown paint with masses of water I applied the mix everywhere in the hand. Then once
that was dry I applied a layer that was just a little darker with some yellow in with the
brown – covering everywhere except for the lightest tone highlights and also leaving
the fingernails which were a slightly different colour. Then I painted the lightest colours
within the brush too. With my method, the next stage is to go in
with the very darkest tones within the subject. With this hand that requires some bravery
as the darkest tones are relatively really dark in some of the creases. It looks like
I’ve taken the mix way too dark, but that’s just because we’re seeing it next to the lightest
tones we’ve already painted. By painting the darkest tones straight away, and matching that colour
as best I can, it makes it easier to paint the darker midtones which are the shadow areas
that connect up with the darkest creases. I used a brown and pink combination here,
a little more watery than my darkest tone mix. Again, it looks REALLY dark compared
to the lightest tones, but trust me, it will look right once I work on the midtones. In
fact, as the mix dried, I could see it wasn’t quite dark enough in some places to connect
up properly with the darkest tones I painted before, so I apply another layer to a few
areas. Next I use a brown, yellow and pink mix at
a more watery consistency to work my way up the tonal range into the mid midtones. I overlap
into the darker midtones I painted before to create smoother transitions there.
I then adjusted the mix to add more yellow to work into other parts of the midtones before
switching down to a smaller brush to work around the fingernails. Again, I applied another
layer to those areas I thought needed darkening once the paint had dried off, as watercolour
so often dries a little lighter than it appears when wet. Next, I used a really watery and
quite orange coloured mix to work on the lighter midtones and to smooth any transitions into
the mid midtones too. As I compared my painting with the photo,
and because of the way that tone is relative, I could see that, as it dried, far from being
too dark in the darkest tones, now the midtones were painted, the darkest tones needed darkening
even more. So then in turn I adjusted the darker midtones
with another layer to them to bring them back in balance and then I did the same with the
mid midtones, also making sure that I began to add a little more detail with my brush
at this stage. Then in turn darkening the mid midtones revealed to me that I could again
darken the lighter midtones a fraction with my paler and more yellow mix after painting
in and therefore darkening the fingernails and the black brush, I could yet again see
that I needed to darken up my darkest tones again, and then work through the darker, mid
and lighter midtones in order to get the hand back in balance. Once I was happy with how
it was looking tonally I used my smallest brush to paint in extra
detail to the hand, making sure the paint underneath was dry so the markings were kept
crisp. This had the effect of darkening the hand overall so yet again I had to darken
up my darkest tones EVEN more. Would you have predicted that back at the start? Hopefully
you can see that going in with the darkest tones really early on was super helpful to
this process. If I had simply worked on the midtones to begin with, by layering up watery
mixes, I would have really struggled to get the darkest tones as dark as they should be
for realism because I’d have had nothing dark on the paper to compare them to.
A full video class of this hand is available now in my online School.
If you’ve enjoyed this tip video, please subscribe to my YouTube channel and I’d love it if you’d
share this video with your friends. And if you’d like to take one of my tried
and tested video classes FOR FREE, come on over to
AnnaMasonArt.com where you’ll find even more resources to help you pick up your brush and
paint the way you’ve always wanted to. Remember, you won’t improve your painting
unless you MAKE the time to paint. So be sure to schedule in some me-time this week and
paint something YOU love. Thanks so much for watching and I’ll see you
soon with another tip for creating watercolours with ‘wow’!

MY PRETTIEST BIG BARBIE DOLL REPAINT / How To Draw Realistic Doll Face, Eyes, Lips, Teeth, Smile

Hello, everyone and welcome to my new dolly repaint video? Some weeks ago i re-painted, my first, big doll head and it was so much fun for me and for you guys too That today i have decided to continue my Experiment with, big dolls and my model of the week will be such a Barbie like doll from the brand, dream girl let’s open, the box and take a closer look at the doll I think she looks already very cute i really, like her skin color and her sweet face with such a soft Expression and because of her neck she can look kinda up and down if she looks to the right or to the left Her top is of course seriously too high the same like the top From the previous doll but i think i will be able to help Very cute pearl, necklace so but for now i’ll need to remove it and i will keep the beads safe in an empty box Then i take pure acetone and remove her face let’s hope, i will be able to make her even cuter And now i need to protect, those hair from the sealant that i will use for my repairing So when meanwhile i’ve sealed the face with, three layers of mr. Super clear sealant and now i need to sketch her eyes with My, watercolor pencils and i use my college fiber castel albrecht durer pencils You can, see that her lips are still a little bit orange it happens sometimes with Cheaper, dolls that the paint that, was used for their lips or eyebrows leave, some stains But in our case it’s not really problem it will be completely covered with. Pastels and pencils afterwards With the same, brown, pencil i draw her nostrils i know, many of you find this Step quite funny but it’s very important first of all it’s always very very dark inside of our nose and they have to show it on her face as, well and Secondly, like this i can, shape her nose you see now the sides look, quite thick and because of these the Whole nose looks more massive but If you, make the sides of your nose thinner the whole face looks immediately much more elegant if you can, say so For the eyebrows i use like always, soft pastels i’m gonna shave them with an eraser and now i take soft pastels and start contouring her face First of all i make darker the eye crease the sides of the nose The area around her mouth and then i go under her cheekbones and to the hairline And here it’s very important to blend everything very good And i also brush her, body it should match the face color of course The, makers skin tone more life, i had to convey, some indian red, and pink pastels And now i finally take, my pencils again, and start working on her eyes The, main advice here is to keep all your pencils very sharp Otherwise instead of a pretty face you will get something very messy and dirty I will show. You again just how i’m darwing one i because the second one is made exactly the same Between the layers of my repaint, i use mr. Super clear sealant to save my work After drawing the irises i start working on the white of the eyes and in my previous Videos i have already told that it’s not actually very white and to show The, eyes real, shape i’m using a lot of gray pencil, while working on the white of the doll eyes You can, see that lately i experiment a lot with different kinds of dolls and i also want to? Ask, you what kinds of doll repaints you would like to see on my channel Which dolls i should repaint or what looks and images i should give to my monster high dolls and which characters from films and movies for example i just cannot forget i Promise i will read every comment under this video and the best ideas for those customizing You, will see very soon on my channel For those eyebrows i always use a couple of different shades of brown and red pencils to create Some extra dimension Then i want to work, some more on her eye crease and to make it a little bit deeper and more realistic Her lips i first color completely with Soft pastels and later after a layer of sealant i will have details with pencils With a very very sharp, black pencil i draw a reflection of lashes in her eyes I’m using a special blending tool to blend the colors together but, regular, q-tips would work as, well? The last time i didn’t dare to draw the realty from a big barbed Face but this time i’m going to do it and first i just block the whole smiling right And then with the gray pencil i draw the tea What is the most important here? And what is the most popular mistake as, well the outline of the teeth cannot be black This is how, many people draw tea? They, make a black outline, and the teeth inside of this outline. They Keep just pure white and it looks just terrible The same like with the white of the eyes the teeth are more gray with White accents and no outline just shadows and highlights with a very sharp, black pencil i draw the bottom eyelashes Then i had some lighter here to her eyebrows And then with the same light pencil i highlight the light spots on the face and then i blend the pencil very good Then i take, white acrylic paint and add all kinds of accents and highlights to her eyes now let’s remove the protection, from her hair and then remove a thin, line of sealant, from her hair i Make, your two very elegant french braids and i think now she looks like, some princess on her wedding, day Now i want to attach the false lashes, and i’m apply gloss acrylic. Varnish to her eyes and lips And now i just need to add some details with the piece of the white lace i make a dog, for the dog They’ll, repair her beautiful pearl necklace And they complete her look with a pair of pearl earrings And finally, we can see the end result i can, tell you honestly i’m just in love with This doll she looks so elegant but at the same time she stays very sweet And i think, my experiment with things, was pretty successful what Do you, think don’t forget to let me know in a comment under this video and of course please Don’t forget to put your likes and then subscribe my channel if you, don’t want to, miss my, new Dory paints every, week friday and i will see already very, soon tomorrow in my new, video bye you

Realistic Reflection Effect with HTML/CSS Only

hello and welcome to red stapler channel
in this tutorial we will show you how to create a reflection of any element using
only CSS in just a few minutes let’s check it out first let’s get to understand the
concept by adding reflection to this element this is a simple element with
assign reflection class for the image background now I’m going to create a duplicate of
the image using after pseudo-element we will use the same background as the
original one you can do it by using inherit background image property same
as width and height we will inherit that from the original then I will place it
underneath using absolute position and -100% bottom now to flip it vertically you can use
-1 transform scale Y and that’s it! this is too long because
reflection in reality is only around half of the height so I’m going to
reduce it I will set the height to 40% and reposition it you will notice that add 1% to the
bottom to create a small gap between the original and a reflection
now the problem is the background is not connected anymore because we resize it
to fix this set background position to bottom and background size to cover to
both of them you may notice a shifted background if
your image file is larger than the div size next I will create another div using before pseudo-element this time I will make it larger than the
reflection then create a gradient background from
transparent white to opaque white this will create a fading effect for the
reflection you will also need to set the z-index to
put it on top looks good now I’m going to create a box
shadow to the original image to create depth and then reduce the opacity of the
reflection to 80% and that’s all for the concept now I
found this demo on codepen that utilize swiper.js which can create a coverflow effect on your divs so I steal the code and tweak it a little bit and then
add a reflection the same way we did with our first example and here is a
result you can find a code for all of them from the link below
and it’s all for this video hope you guys enjoy if you want to see more dev
tips and tutorials don’t forget to subscribe our channel to stay tuned
thanks for watching see you next video bye

Is 3D Printing The Future Of Triathlon? | Custom Tri Bike Kit

– Now, earlier this year,
you may well remember that I competed in the
Norseman Xtreme Triathlon. Now, personally I knew
this was going to be a pretty epic day out, given that it is one of the
toughest events in the world, and you definitely want to see it and see me suffering. So given that I was
going to be on the bike for a good five to six hours, I knew that I needed to
attach a GoPro to my bike in order to capture everything I could. Now obviously I could
just attach that GoPro using a standard GoPro
mount onto my aero bars, but I’m pretty picky. I like my cockpit nice and clean, and I’ve already got my
bike computer on there. So, I came up with the idea of designing a new computer mount with the
GoPro attachment underneath. Now this just means that I’m going to have
to have a custom design for me for this setup, with a computer and a
GoPro mount underneath, all designed for my bars and how I’ve got them angled. Now, go back a number of years, this would be totally
unfeasible, cost a fortune, and just not be possible. But now, with thanks to 3D printing, I was just able to contact
Martyn from RaceWare, get this basically brought to life, and within a handful of
days, he’d made this for me, and I used this in Norseman
to capture this footage on screen right now. Now, in addition to this, 3D printing has totally
revolutionized cycling, in fact, sport in general. So today, I thought we’d head along to see Martyn at RaceWare, and find out a little bit more about it. (tires rumbling)
(relaxing music) (logo whirring) Okay, we’ve just arrived in
Newbury, home to RaceWare. But before we head on in to meet Martyn, let me just get you up to speed with exactly what 3D printing is. Now, traditionally if you
wanted a part or a product made, then a company would need
to make molds and tools for each of the individual
parts for that product. Now, that obviously takes time, but also costs them quite a lot of money. So they want to recoup those costs, so they want to make sure
that product is needed, it’s desirable, and it
can be mass produced to sell and make back those costs. That’s not going to bode
too well for my custom mount that’s being designed
for me, for my needs, and for my setup on my bike. But that is where 3D
printing does come in. Now, back in 1986, there was actually a
chap called Chuck Hull, who came up with the idea of layering inks on top of each other to create a three-dimensional
model, 3D printing. Now, the processes, the materials have changed
somewhat since 1986, the fundamentals remain the same. The key being that we don’t
need these tools or these molds to create the product. So this has made way for
small runs of products, maybe even a one-off
product or a prototype, such as my mount. So, let’s head on in to see how it’s made. (upbeat music) Hi, Martyn. Now Martyn is the founder
of RaceWare components, and we’ve actually, well, we
haven’t come into RaceWare, we’ve actually gone next door to 3T-am. So, talk us through why
we’re in the premises next door to RaceWare? – So, 3T-am are one of the world’s leading active manufacturing bureaus, have been around for 20 years now, and are really at the
forefront of their technology. So, it’s not by chance that
my office is next door. These guys for me were
the main people to come to for producing the components, and the relationship works really well, being so close geographically means I can get my parts quicker as well. Any problems, they’re
right next door to me, so it works very very well
having them as my rider. – Yeah, and it’s these machines behind us that you’re utilizing, and we’re here to talk about today. – That’s correct, yeah. So all these machines here
are 3D printing machines building in nylon material, and the one behind me is actually running one of
your components at the moment. – Cool, so how do they actually work? So what is the process involved? – So, it’s a layer based process, and these industrial printers are very different to the home ones, in as much as they’re
done by heat and lasers, and you have a bed of loose nylon powder, and the layers are reduced to locally melt the 2D contour of the component, then that component is dropped down by .12 millimeters of a layer, layers in this process, not always .12, but in this case it is. And then, new powder is
drawn across the top, and then another layer is printed, and it’s repeated until you
get the component built. – And you can do just
small runs on here I guess, so it’s maybe one product?
– Yeah, you can. Yeah, you can do one-offs,
you can a hundred-off. Generally you’d tend to do a large run because it’s economically not very viable to do just a one-off part, but you could do a one-off part. – Say, for instance, we were
going in the wind tunnel, we were doing some aerodynamic testing. You could literally make a few iterations, pop back in, redesign, change it– – Yeah, exactly. – So yeah. – Yeah, so there’s no tooling, and there’s no kind of
upfront costs for a one-off, as opposed to a 10-off. So, yeah, you can do various iterations, and they’ll be the same
kind of price each time. – Yeah, which is amazing, because I guess traditionally you’d be kind of waiting for months, maybe years, for tooling, then the production model, whereas you can just
turn it around quickly. – Exactly.
– But not just prototypes, these are finished
products that you can use, going to world pro-tour teams, and they are literally using them in the likes of Paris-Roubaix, which is like the harshest
environment I guess. – It is, yeah, and generally the feedback is very good. So we like to try and
make sure that our parts are functioning right at that top level. (uplifting music) – So whilst we leave the
machines to do their thing, we’re going to head back
over to Martyn’s office to find out a little bit more about the initial stages
to the 3D printing process. – So on the screen behind,
we have the CAD model for a mount we were
looking at on your bike, and that’s the start of the process. The CAD design is the first place. After you’ve done the CAD modeling, that’ll be sent to a 3D
printing bureau such as 3T-am, and they would then prep
that ready for build. So it would be put onto a
theoretical build platform, and there’d also be some
scaling applied for shrinkage, and then that scaled file
would be sliced into the layers and sent as a package of eight to the machine ready for printing. – With other products?
– Exactly, yeah. So you would rarely print
something on its own. It would be with a vast
array of other products, probably from other customers
to fill their machine. – Or iterations, I guess? – Or iterations, yeah, or a combination. – Yeah, brilliant, and I’m actually interested in sort of the materials that you’re using here, because this is, I mean
this is a tough material. What is it? – So that’s basically a nylon 12, and the properties for
nylon 12 are really good for most of the bike parts that we do, and it lends itself very well. It’s quite a flexible material, so you can make nice hinged
parts for going around bars. It’s fairly soft, so it shouldn’t
damage any of your bars, shouldn’t scratch them, and it also shouldn’t
damage any of the computers you’re putting on there, so if anything does get damaged, it’s likely to be the cheaper mount, rather than the expensive computer. We can offer other nylons, and also titanium, such as this piece, which is a printed titanium chain catcher. The downside with the titanium is it’s still vastly expensive, but the options are always there. – Great, and I mean this is
not quite a finished product, there’s a couple more stages after these come out from
the 3D printer, right? – That’s right, yeah. So, that one’s a semi-finished product, but you still have to put
in some stainless bolts and some brass-threaded inserts
to clamp it all together. – Cool, and a bit of
coloring, at some point. – Yeah, a bit of coloring. That one’s obviously black, but we can do most colors, and we can also do custom paint as well, to an exact Pantone or our reference. – Fantastic, and just lastly, I mean, how did you get into all of this? What was the starting point? – So for me, I’ve always
been a keen cyclist, and my TC bike, I’d spend
hours making it look as nice and sleek as possible, but the SRM mount was horrendous. They just, nobody made one
for an oval shaped bar, so… – Oh yeah, this is it here, right? – Exactly, that’s the one
there, so I used some CAD, and got one 3D printed. It went almost viral really
on the Weight Weenies forum, and suddenly I found hundreds of people wanted them almost overnight. So it went from one SRM
mount to almost a business. – Brilliant, well on that note, shall we go and see how it’s getting on? – Certainly. (upbeat music) – Okay Martyn, so we’ve
got the product out. I mean this doesn’t look quite
like the finished product so it’s got some powder on it. What’s going on here? – Yes, that’s right. So when the part is built, it’s built with powder all around it, so when it comes out of the machine, you have kind of this
loose debris of powder which is collected from
the printing process where you do the layer-by-layer stages, and one you’ve removed it from the machine you then have to blast this. Blast it with air and a light media just to remove the powder, but making sure we don’t damage
the part at the same time. No discoloration, no burning, and then effectively that
part is then finished for all intents and purposes. But if you want to enhance the finish, or make it smoother and get
rid of some of the build lines which you’ll see, then you can put it through
a secondary process, where it will vibrate
through a finishing process to give that nice smooth feel to it. – Brilliant, well we best
go and pop it in there then. – Certainly. (relaxing music) – So here it is, the
finished 3D printed product, which I’m honestly super grateful and fortunate to have had made for myself. But don’t just assume
that this kind of thing is only open to the elite or
the super-wealthy out there, because this is becoming more
and more readily available. In fact, just going through one of the triathlon
transitions last year, I saw tons of this kind of
thing made for both pros and age-groupers. So really cool, I hope you have enjoyed today’s video. It’s been really interesting. Perhaps there’s scope for a GTN 3D printing project in the future, who knows? If you’ve got any ideas, drop that in the comments section below. If you’ve enjoyed today’s
video, hit the thumbs up button. If you’d like to see more from GTN, just click on the globe and subscribe to the channel. If you’d like to see our Kona tech tour, if tech is your kind of thing, you see that by clicking just down here. If you’d like to see our
Roth transition tour, you can see that by
clicking just down here.